I’ve always been a champion of fennel.
I grow it in my backyard in California and notice it at the farmers’ market through winter and early spring, its feathery fronds waving to command attention.
And yet, many cooks walk right past it.
I understand the hesitation: Raw fennel is quite anise-forward, almost medicinal, and its crunch can tilt more toward obstacle than pleasure.
But when treated right, fennel is quietly spectacular: sweet, grassy, and refreshing, with a clean snap that pairs beautifully with bold partners.
To give fennel its moment in the sun in a bright salad, I started by slicing the bulbs wafer-thin to soften their crunch.
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Then I looked for ingredients that would complement the fennel, providing acid for sharpness, bitterness to push against its licorice-y sweetness, and creaminess to tie it all together.
Citrus, I realized, was the ideal partner.
It made sense: Both fennel plants and citrus trees grow splendidly in Mediterranean climates.
I sliced oranges and grapefruit and arranged the rounds on a large platter.
As the foundation of the dish, the refreshing juices would create a sweet-tart pool that the rest of the ingredients could drink up.
Next, a few handfuls of arugula brought a necessary peppery-bitter edge.
I needed the dressing to be creamy enough to coat and cling but light enough not to weigh things down.
I blitzed avocado and buttermilk with lime juice, cilantro, garlic, and a bit of cold water to make a pale green dressing that offered acidity and just enough body to lightly veil the vegetables.
Why Buttermilk Is a Good Emulsifier
Most creamy dressings rely on the egg yolk in mayonnaise, specifically its lecithin, to hold oil and water together in a stable emulsion. The proteins in buttermilk work in a similar fashion. When you blend the avocado and oil in our dressing with lime juice and water, the fat disperses into tiny droplets. The proteins in buttermilk, particularly beta-casein, bind to those droplets and help keep them evenly distributed throughout the liquid. This gives the dressing a smooth, velvety texture without requiring egg yolk or a generous dose of oil.
The fennel fronds brought their delicate beauty to the salad; a handful of toasted pistachios scattered across the top added crunch and richness; and a dusting of Aleppo pepper brought a slow, fruity burn.
Here was a salad that was bright, layered, and unapologetically fennel-forward.
Fennel, Arugula, and Citrus Salad with Avocado-Buttermilk Dressing
A sunny, bright-tasting salad sure to drive off the winter doldrums.
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